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Custom aquariums - acrylic aquariums,aquarium supplies,reef aquariums,tropical fish supplies,aquarium maintenace company,fish tanks,saltwater fish,fresh water fish,reef supplies

Suggestions on how to plumb your aquarium:

The diagram below will give you some basic ideas on how to plumb your aquarium. Although there are numerous ways to set up your aquarium filtration, this way demonstrates the most common.

Note the open and closed system. Most, if not all our custom aquariums come with an open and closed system. Generally, the open system will consist of a bio filter and protein skimmer, while the closed system will consist of your mechanical, chemical, UV and chiller. Most modern aquariums will have a pre-filter or over-flow box built into the aquarium, typically, this is where your open system begins.

The open system is just that, OPEN, which means, during a power failure any return or intake nozzle below the water line will siphon to its lowest point and back into your sump. Unless your sump has the same capacity as the aquarium, get your waders on because you will have a FLOOD. Keep your intake and return nozzles close to the surface making sure to calculate just how much water will siphon back to your sump.

In inches, OD (L" x W" x H") ÷ 231 = Gallons

Please note: The above formula calculates approx gallons, measurements are OD, out-side dimensions. If you know the thickness of the acrylic you can use inside dimensions for a more accurate measurement.

You can however have your return line(s) at any depth if you first loop the return line to the top (Inside of pre-filter) of your aquarium and then back down to your return nozzles. Picture a candy cane, the longer end will be to the discharge side of your pump and the shorter end will be your return. On the underside top loop of the candy cane, drill a small hole. During normal filtration you will see a small jet of water shooting from the hole, but should you have a power failure, that small hole will suck air thus stopping any siphon.

If you're thinking,"Awe I'll get a check valve", you might want to rethink that. Over the years we have come to know a few things, one being, check valves (Anti siphon) are designed to FAIL, don't trust them, don't use them. When we are called to repair a DIY job we often find this mistake the culprit. Do not use check valves unless used as a backup to a backup.

INTAKE: The intake line for your open system should always be gravity fed, don't attempt to draw water from your aquarium using a pump, you are asking for a headache of epic proportions, a balancing act you will not win.

Closed system:
The closed system is easy, water in, water out and filter it in between. Place the intake anywhere you like but it's best if you place the intake at or near the bottom of your aquarium, and preferably away from return lines. Considering you have more flexibility with your return lines it's a good idea to place them in strategic locations. If you have rock formations it's a good idea to place the returns near the base to that you can eliminate dead spots in your aquarium. However, if you have a reef aquarium, use caution, some species do not like direct currents. Know the difference between velocity and volume, but try to use both within the aquarium.

Pumps and Intakes: The most common mistake is putting equipment on the intake side of the pump. You should NEVER try to pull water through an application, but rather push water though it. The only thing that should be between the intake side of your pump and the water source is a true union ball valve. Never try reducing the flow rate of your pump by restricting the intake, you can accomplished this by restricting the discharge.

Pumps: Depending on what type aquarium, the rule of thumb is to re-circulate the water 3-5 times an hour. Examine the pumps flow chart to make sure the head pressure is adequate for your application. Head pressure is not only created by the height, but also your plumbing; tee's, elbows and PVC pipe will add overall head pressure. Two different style pumps may be required with open and closed systems, because your real head pressure does not start until you have surpassed the water level. An open system does not have the weight of the water pushing it back to the top; therefore, a larger pump may be required.




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